The goods: Miami welcomes another restaurant fronted by a celebrity chef: the Dream South Beach hotel’s Tudor House by Geoffrey Zakarian (The Food Network’s Chopped, Manhattan’s The Lambs Club and The National), with Jamie Derosa (Atlantic Ocean Club) as executive chef.
Ambience: The Deco hotel lobby’s swagger has been retained in shiny travertine floors, chrome chairs and Danish wood paneling. A spacious, date-friendly patio is outfitted with teak benches and a stone fountain.
The grub: Modern American cuisine. Expect classics like fried chicken, meatballs and brussels sprouts with a gourmet twist. Portions are delicate, but you won’t go home hungry. Prices are on par for South Beach hotels: starters are $9-$15, mains $12-$29 and sides $8.
Dinner begins with salted pretzel bites and red wine ketchup. Move on to platters of cured Iberico ham, small plates of plump white anchovies on toasted bread, marinated olives, steak tartare with chanterelle mushrooms or a hiramasa (yellowtail amberjack) sashimi with ají amarillo foam and yuzu sorbet.
Mains include grouper cheeks with romesco sauce, lamb belly with baby carrots, a Cuban-style pressed sandwich with pork belly and pickled cucumbers and an “Ugly Burger” smothered in bread-and-butter pickles.
Pastry chef Natalia Arevalo (Nobu) brings a playful edge to childhood sweets with a popcorn milkshake accompanied by homemade Kit Kat bars, house-made Oreos with coffee hazelnut milk and rocky road ice cream.